What makes a good backstage photographer
We asked 6 in the biz to share their experience on how to make sense of the maelstrom behind the curtains.
As fashion becomes increasingly driven by data, algorithms, balance sheets and other unromantic measures of time and money efficiency, there’s something even more compelling about the backstage of a catwalk show. It is, in many ways, the antithesis of our era – a hands-on, tactile environment that can’t be smoothed over by virtual assistance or generative AI. It’s messy, high energy and dependent on an elaborate choreography between multiple creative teams.
But chaos alone doesn’t make a photograph. Backstage is unpredictable, often badly lit, and rarely patient. You have seconds, not minutes. You’re navigating egos, hierarchies and tight schedules. So what actually separates a good backstage photographer from a great one? Is it technical mastery? Social intelligence? The ability to stay invisible while being exactly where the action is?
It’s also largely a phone-free space, where the clothes are kept out of sight until the designer is ready to reveal them. While a catwalk photographer is now competing with every attendee’s iPhone, a backstage photographer occupies a rarer position – one that rewards instinct, speed and trust over immediacy.
With fashion week underway (tbh, when is it not), we asked a handful of the best in the business to share the skills, attitudes and instincts that matter most when working behind the scenes.
“When I am shooting for the brand or have exclusive access for a publication, having full control can almost leave me dumbfounded or bored. As sick as it might sound, I think I need the chaos to give me the sense of urgency.” – Adam Katz Sinding
Emily Malan
You have to be prepared for any type of lighting condition. Some shows don’t have ideal lighting setups backstage, so bringing in a continuous light source or flash is helpful. You need to learn how to move quickly as possible and make quick decisions while shooting. Backstage can be quite busy and chaotic once the models are in lineup. Everyone is trying to do their job so if you take too long you might miss your shot or you’re encroaching on other people’s time and space. Try to give direction to the models whenever you can. Sometimes certain backstage situations don’t allow for it, but if you’re able to get the models engaged with you and your lens, it makes for a better photo.