The hypocrisy of fashion magazine affiliate links
Stories on the ills of fast-fashion brands increasingly sit next to lists encouraging you to buy their products.
By Sophie Benson
When searching for The Cut’s feature on luxury duplicates brand Quince – one that she had lent her expertise to – journalist and author Alden Wicker eventually found it nestled among other articles recommending the brand’s products. The sustainable fashion expert had raised concerns about Quince’s lack of transparency and greenwashing tactics, such as incorrectly citing sustainability certifications and making unverified claims about carbon reduction. The wider article spotlit alleged issues including stressful working conditions, forcing rock bottom prices on manufacturers, a growth-at-all-costs mindset, and a legally murky duping strategy. Still, these findings weren’t enough to stop parent publication New York magazine pushing the brand’s products complete with affiliate links – meaning the publication earns commission if readers click through and buy.
For journalists working the sustainable fashion beat, it’s a familiar scenario. Stories on the ills of fast-fashion brands sit awkwardly next to articles celebrating the same brands’ latest collections; investigations into waste and overconsumption run alongside endless shopping features.
Elle, arguably one of the most progressive among the glossies, has published a dedicated sustainability issue for which it consulted with a sustainability expert on its content, runs features like Green List highlighting sustainable fashion pioneers, This Old Thing to encourage its readers to try vintage and resale; and refreshingly titled articles such as “Fashion’s Next Big Trend Is Probably Already Lying In Your Wardrobe”. Still, these stories still alongside stories about the seven best midi skirts to buy now. Meanwhile Marie Claire, another publication that has updated its output in recent years, has a dedicated sustainability vertical and educates its readers on issues such as microplastics and coral reef restoration, yet also has a hefty affiliate-linked shopping section full of recommendations for fast-fashion purchases.